Quick answer: measure the bar, then verify the chain specifications
To find a replacement chainsaw chain, start by measuring the usable length of the guide bar from its tip to the point where it enters the saw body. That gives you the nominal bar length used when shopping. But bar length alone is not enough. The replacement chain must also match the required pitch, gauge, and drive-link count.
The fastest and most reliable method is to inspect the markings stamped on the guide bar, check the owner's manual, or read the specifications printed on the old chain's packaging. If those are missing or unreadable, you can measure and count the needed details yourself.
Before you measure: make the saw safe
Turn the chainsaw off and let the chain cool. For a battery saw, remove the battery. For a gas saw, disconnect the spark-plug lead. Wear work gloves because even a dull chain can have sharp cutters. Place the saw on a stable work surface before touching the bar or chain.
Step 1: measure the effective cutting length
Use a tape measure to measure from the very tip of the guide bar to the point where the bar disappears into the chainsaw housing. Measure only the exposed cutting portion, not the full metal bar after removal.
This exposed measurement is commonly called the effective cutting length. Manufacturers normally sell bars and chains by a nominal whole-inch size, so compare your measurement with the size shown on the bar or in the saw manual. Do not rely on rounding alone when two nearby configurations are available for the same saw model.
Why the same bar length can use different chains
Two chains labeled for the same nominal bar length may still be incompatible. A 16-inch chain, for example, can be made with different pitch, gauge, or drive-link counts. The bar length narrows the search, but the other three specifications determine whether the chain will sit correctly in the bar groove and engage the drive sprocket.
If you are unfamiliar with the abbreviations stamped on a bar, see our guide to chainsaw chain numbers, pitch, gauge, and drive links.
Step 2: identify the chain pitch
Pitch describes the spacing of the chain's rivets and must match the drive sprocket and bar nose. Look first for a pitch marking on the guide bar, saw label, or manual. Common formats may appear as a fraction or decimal, sometimes with an LP designation for low-profile chain.
If no marking is available, measure the distance from the center of one rivet to the center of the third rivet, then divide that distance by two. Small measuring errors can lead to the wrong result, so a manufacturer specification is preferable whenever you can find it.
Step 3: confirm the gauge
Gauge is the thickness of the drive link that runs inside the guide-bar groove. It must match the groove width. A drive link that is too thick will not fit; one that is too thin can move excessively and will not guide correctly.
Check the bar stamp or manual before measuring. If the marking is unavailable, use an accurate caliper on an unworn drive link. Measuring a worn bar groove can be misleading, so do not use groove wear as your only reference.
Step 4: count every drive link
Drive links are the pointed tabs on the inside of the chain loop that travel through the bar groove. Count these tabs, not the cutting teeth. Mark the first drive link with a removable marker or piece of tape, then move around the complete loop until you return to the starting point.
The count is often shown as “DL.” For a closer explanation and counting tips, read what DL means on a chainsaw chain.
Use all four details together
Before ordering, write the specifications in one line:
- Nominal bar length
- Pitch
- Gauge
- Drive-link count
Then compare every value with the replacement chain listing. A match on only one or two values is not enough. The saw model can be a useful cross-check, but model families sometimes ship with more than one bar-and-chain setup. The specifications on the bar and the installed cutting system should be treated as the final reference.
Common measuring mistakes
- Measuring the entire removed bar. Product sizing usually refers to the exposed cutting length, not the bar's full physical length.
- Counting cutters instead of drive links. The required count is the number of lower tabs that run in the groove.
- Assuming every chain for the same bar length fits. Pitch and gauge can differ even when the nominal length is identical.
- Reading worn components as exact measurements. Wear can distort a bar groove or drive link, so verify against stamped or documented specifications.
- Using only the chainsaw model name. Confirm the actual bar-and-chain configuration installed on the saw.
Replacement-chain checklist
- Make the chainsaw safe and place it on a stable surface.
- Measure the exposed guide-bar length.
- Find or measure the pitch.
- Find or measure the gauge.
- Count every drive link.
- Compare all specifications with the replacement listing.
- Install and tension the chain according to the saw manufacturer's instructions.
Once you have the complete specification, browse the Binam chainsaw chain collection and match all listed measurements before purchasing. If any value is uncertain, pause and check the bar stamp, owner's manual, or manufacturer documentation rather than guessing.
